It was fishy without being overwhelming, hearty without being filling, and just an excellent pasta dish all around.Īnd then came the grilled rabbit with yellow tube chanterelles and brown butter. The handmade, al dente bowties were the perfect shape to gather pools of sauce and all the good bits: flakes of rich, creamy confit swordfish, capers, olives, anchovies, and roasted and raw tomatoes, mingling with the roasted remains of soft, sleek eggplant. The farfalle with swordfish puttanesca and eggplant was something our waitress had highly recommended, and she wasn’t wrong. The empanadas were matched by a side of punchy homemade salsa with roasted tomatillos and Aji Amarillo Peruvian yellow pepper, adding a fresh, bright bonus round of dunkability to this already amazing dish. The thin, soft but still lightly crisp crust gave way to a velvety, warm bechamel-sauced chicken mixture, punctuated by sweet busts of corn. These two pastries came golden and gleaming with a delicate egg wash, their half-moon shape and twisted edge begging to be pulled apart. A mainstay on the menu, this item’s fillings change weekly and I suggest making your way to Beba as fast as you can to put them in your mouth (no joke). Photo by Allen McInnis / Montreal Gazette Involtini is an Italian word that basically means anything that is small and wrapped, in this case the wrapper being the Swiss chard. Served at room temperature and so delectable, this dish was thoughtfully composed, weaving together the ultimate veggie pleaser with layers of texture, personality and confident flavours.
Inside these dark, sophisticated little bundles was a creamy mixture of roasted zucchini, onions and chard stems. Two carefully folded, plump parcels sat on the plate, covered with a dollop of yoghurt, a caper condiment, pine nuts, basil leaves and pickled banana peppers. The first dish was Swiss chard involtini.
She also talked us through the wine list, and after settling on two glasses of Jean Bourdry Crémant du Jura bubbles to start, recommended a great bottle that paired beautifully with the food - François Mikulski’s Aligoté. Thankfully, our lovely waitress, Natasha, did something I have not seen in a while: She swayed us away from over-ordering and suggested four menu items that composed a perfect, reasonably sized meal for two people. On top of that, choices are short and sweet, which is great because it narrows down the options, but also makes decisions harder. It’s very rare that I am surprised by how good and how reasonably priced a wine list is, and it’s even rarer that every item on a menu feels totally fresh and different - Beba impresses on both fronts. There’s only room for 28 in here, and by the end of my meal on a cool, rainy Wednesday night, every seat in the house was taken. The restaurant itself is minimal but warm, with a large corner window, a long banquette and tables on one side of the room, and a bar with seats next to the open kitchen, opposite.
Article content The style of cuisine at Beba is what brothers Ari and Pablo Schor grew up eating. This advertisement has not loaded yet, but your article continues below. Ari’s kitchen ethos is to use what’s around him and cook with the seasons, the weather, and what he likes to eat. The style of cuisine is what Ari and Pablo grew up eating - food that reflects a sense of place, but is also influenced by immigration, most notably Argentina’s large Spanish and Italian populations. Pablo came to the city soon after and worked the front of house at Liverpool and Loïc before the brothers decided to go out on their own.īeba is named after their grandmother, who was the youngest of the family and lovingly called “beba,” or baby.Īlthough the food at Beba is Argentinian, don’t expect huge hunks of grilled meat here. He landed a job at Liverpool House and was there for 6½ years, most of that time spent as the chef de cuisine. Article contentĪri is no stranger to the restaurant industry, having moved to Montreal from his home in Winnipeg - after his family immigrated from Argentina - to work with Dave McMillan and Fred Morin.
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